JEDDAH is least likely to be on the wish list of tourists worldwide. It is, however, the gateway for those who would like to know and understand the Middle East better; manifesting many a surprise as the layers unfold.The second largest Saudi Arabian city after the capital Riyadh, set by the Red Sea, it amazes with its cosmopolitan nature. Its claim to fame lies primarily as the gateway to Islam’s holiest city Mecca. Hajis flock here with a desire to visit the holy Kaba at least once in their lifetime. Devout Muslims circum-ambulate counter-clickwise the Kaba. This ritual is symbolic of angels walking around the throne of god; in essence seeking to be the presence of God.

Non-Muslims are prohibited from visiting Mecca. A few miles on the highway to      Mecca is a sign-board signaling to ahead for Muslims and U-turn for non-Muslims. The law also prohibits women from driving; hence a ‘chauffeur’ is needed. Also women are only allowed to be accompanied by a father, husband, brother or son.

The restrictive rules governing entry to Mecca were a dichotomy to the beaches visitors dined at. Cornice Beaches had many a women, clad in a hijaab/burqah, frolicking in the water, nary a care in the world. Children built castles in the sand. A visitor’s astounded gaze could take this in from any open air restaurant on a beach where the maitre’d would offer you ahookah and a delectable Middle Eastern menu to choose from.

Beyond the beach, spouted a fountain visible from most areas of the city. Jeddah boasts the highest fountain; a major landmark built in the 1980s and listed by the Guinness world records organization as the highest water jet in the world at 312 meters.

The sunflower Field Fountain is exceptional too. Created by the a Finnish woman Eila Hiltunen, the non-corrosive stainless steel flowers seem wishful and lifelike as these are gently sprayed by mist from the base. The Saudis have a penchant for recreating mini oases in the desert sands and large palaces had won the Aga Khan award for architecture in the 1980s. The exquisite white Floating Mosque has Red Sea waves lashing it at high tide and is a must see. It is open to followers of all faiths.

The oil boom of the 1970s and 1980s saw a desire to encourage public art, bagging Jeddah the trophy for the largest number of art works installed. Presently, there are more than 300 sculptures and monuments on display. Though the first artist chosen by the city’s mayor was Abdulhalim Radwi, other artists such as Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Joan Miro, Cesar Baldaccini and Victor Vasarely were invited to create.

Since Islamic tradition prohibits the depiction of living creatures, the sculptures often depict elements of traditional Saudi culture like coffee pots, stain-glass lanterns and incense burners to the compeletly bizarre; a mounted defunct propeller plane, a humongous bronze fist, a giant geometry set, a block of concrete with several cars protruding out of it odd angles, a giant bicycle, a map of Jeddah, etc. A huge favorite with tourists is the Cocmos sculpture, designed by German artist Ottmar Hollmann. A number of these sculptures are incongruously parked at roundabouts.

As for museums other than open air art,Abdul  Raaouf Khalil housed in heritage buildings showcases their history in three sections; the first highlights the lives of the early tribes, the second section contains artifacts of the Ottoman Turks who conquered Jeddah in the early 16^th century and the third traces developments after the world war 1.

Municipality Museum is unique and houses rare photographs. Made by fishermen in red coral, it was restored by the British after the World War1. T,S. Lawrence stayed here in 1917.

Although the Champs Elysees of Jeddah is Tahia Street, no visit to Jeddah is complete till you scour its old town market in Al-Balad. The souk has all things Arabic one may choose from; gaudy gold jewellery for those inclined toward the metal, prayer rugs with typical Medina designs, attar perfumes, dates and a range of dry fruits and condiments. Do familiarize yourself with the prayer timings as all establishments shut shop for the duration of the prayers five times a day.