A festival without sumptuous food? Are you kidding? A Bengali is very likely to retort. The vest repertoire of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, which a Bengali even from an ordinary household can cook, is quite enviable. From traditional dishes to innovations from the kitchen of the Thakur Bari (house of the illustrious Tagores), the Bengali food palette is a gourmand’s delight.
At no time, the Bengalis’ fondness for good food is more noticeable than during the four-day autumn festival of Durga puja. Along with the festival shopping, a list of foods, to be had during the puja days, at home or in restaurants offering traditional fare, is carefully drawn up.
Certain days are reserved for certain dishes. On vegetarian days like Saptami or the first day of the puja, the favourite items are luchi (smaller than poori) and alur dum (potato curry) or radhaballavi (stuffed poori) with cholar daal. Plain rice is often accompanied by bhaja mooger dal, beguni, slices of brinjal dipped in mix of gram dal flour, mocha chop, dhokar dalna.
These days para pujo or community puja is a big thing. This food is offered to the goddess before being partaken by the devotees. Khichri, made with rice and moong dal , labda (mixed vegetable), potoler dorma, sweet chutney with tomato, payesh (rice pudding or kheer) are served. The vegetarian fare shuns onion and garlic, only ginger is allowed.
Bengali food without sweets is almost a sacrilege. While it is more well-known for its rosogollas outside the state, an astonishing variety of sandesh, made with cottage cheese, and fried sweets are available round the year. Every region of Bengal has its own specialty, like Bardhaman has its mihidana, shaktigarh its lengcha, Nadia its sar-bhaja, etc. During the puja these days big confectioners in Kolkata come uo with new concoctions and advertise these stridently to attract customers. So mishti doi the famous sweet curd of Bengal and other sweets after the puja lunch or dinner make for a sweet ending.
On the last day of the puja Bijoya (Dussehra) dashmi, having sweets is almost a ritual and while visiting friends and relatives it is mandatory to take along a box of sweets.
On Asthami and Nabami day, Bengalis usually take non-vegetarian food. Kosha mangsho with rice or luchi is a great favourite. Instead of plain dal, it could be muri ghonto or dl with fish head.
That brings to the fore the all-important fish. After all, Bengalis are known for their weakness to fish curry and rice. Prawn malai curry with coconut milk extract is a cherished item as also fish fry during the festivities. Various kinds of fishes like pabda, rohu, katla, are cooked in different styles according to taste. Some prized fish dishes are doi maach, and paturi. The medium of cooking for fish is usually mustard oil. Observing the growing interest in traditional Bengali food, some restaurants in Kolkata serve exclusively bangali khabar during the puja days. Among them Kewpie,s, 6 Ballygunge place, bhojohori Manna (branches), oh! Calcutta is well khown. They offer special thali, as also a la care menu, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian, during the festive days.
Jumping on the bandwagon, reputed multi-cuisine restaurants and many restaurants in starred hotels also announce special Bengali menu during the festive days, which have become quite popular too.